• Increase font size
  • Default font size
  • Decrease font size


Central Andes - Cerro Chimbote (5 493m)
First ascent. Considered one of the highest and most technical unclimbed peaks in the range and had resisted many attempts since the first in 1944. North Face (70° and 5.9) but terrible rock. Only summit ridge difficult. Fernando Fainberg and Waldo Farias.

Paine Group
Paine Grande (3 050m)

First winter ascent. 14 August in 22 hours from high camp. Maria Paz Iberra and Camilo Rada. Eight pitches above the rimaye with ice to 90°. Variant to Garibotti-Sourzac Route (450m of climbing to WI5) on South Face. Third overall ascent of peak.

http://andesgear.expenews.com/es/expeditions/197/dispatches/2913 (Spanish with route photo)


Aconcagua (6 962m)

Andrea di Donato and Andres Zeger made an alpine-style ascent of the 1985 French route on the south face, making a variant to the right of the orginal route on the first rock band. The pair completed the ascent of the 2,800m face in 50 hours with two bivouacs at WI4 70° and UIAA V.



Aguja Mermoz (2 723m)
East Face (couloir) and North Ridge. New route Jardines Japoneses, (650m: AI4, M5, 5.10, A1) by Jens Holsten, Colin Haley and Mike Schaefer.

Cerro Pollone East (2 579m)
First ascent of peak via South Face. Re Puesto! (800m: V, 5.10, A1) by Neil Kauffman and Jim Toman, one bivouac

Fitz Roy (3 405m)
South Face. New route. Washington Route (12 pitches plus simul-climbing: 5.10 and A1) right of the Californian Route by Kate Rutherford and Mike Schaefer.
See also:

Fitz Roy (3 045m)
East Pillar, First Free Ascent via a combination of Ferrari Route and El Corazon (1,350m of climbing: 7b on sight). 27½ hours. Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva. Rappel descent of Royal Flush.
See also: http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/fitzgroup/fitz/eastpillar.html

Desmochada +Silla+ Fitz Roy
Whit Magro, Nate Opp and Josh Warton linked Aguja Desmochada, Aguja de la Silla and Fitz Roy to produce The Wave Effect (1,900m of which ca 800m new: 7b+). Four days alpine style including a new route on Silla.
See also: http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/fitzgroup/fitz/wave.html

Desmochada (2 800m)
South Face/South East Face. New route Coda (700m of which 350m new: 7a+ and A0) by Neil Kauffmann and Josh Wharton

[Also Golden Eagle first free ascent (700m: 7a+) by Raoul Martinez (who on-sighted the crux), Cintia Persivati and Sean Villanueva. http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/fitzgroup/desmochada/golden.html

Cerro Standhardt (2 730m)
South Face. El Caracol (500m: 5.9 A1+ M4) by Jorge Ackerman and Colin Haley. Completes the 1977 Brian Hall - John Whittle climb, which stopped at the overhanging summit cornice.

Torre Egger (2 850m)

South Face. New route above Col of Conquest (reached via El Arco de los Vientos) by Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Ole Lied. 950m (of which 350m new), 6a, A1, AI6 (95°), M5. Alpine style in two days with bivouac on col.


Cordillera Carabaya
Chichiacapac South Face first ascent. Apparently the plum of this little visited range. 600m, TD,  Scottish 6, with some objective danger, poor rock and protection. Hamish Dunn and Tom Ripley. Descent by West Ridge, one-day round trip from camp.

Cordillera Blanca
Santa Cruz Chico (5,800m). East Face. Second ascent of face via new route joining Scottish Direct route at top. 450-500m ice to 90°.
Nevado Santa Cruz, attempt on East Ridge to Gran Gendarme at 5,800m (90°). Fabrizio Manoni, Enrico Rosso and Paolo Stoppini



Chamonix Mont-Blanc Commune de Courmayeur 
Région Rhône-Alpes
VerticalGroupe de Haute Montagne
Montagnes Magazine